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Steehead Brasserie offers fresh, home-style flavors
Comfortably Delicious
by Lisa Clark
Home is a recurring theme at Steelhead
Brasserie & Wine Bar, both in the kitchen
and on the plates.
When Executive Chef Brian Pekarcik took charge of the Pittsburgh restaurant in October, it was a chance for him to bring his talent home. A native of Murrysville in the city’s eastern suburbs, he cooked in California for ten years prior to his return to Pittsburgh. And he brought Dave Anoia, a fellow Pennsylvanian, back with him as one of his sous chefs.
The new menu Pekarcik has crafted reflects his passion for preparing and presenting home-style comfort food in innovative ways. His emphasis is on “modern American” cuisine, inspired by fresh, regional ingredients. “I like having fun with the dishes that I create,” he says.
Seared Day Boat Scallops are a prime example. Served as a starter, the dish is like classic pork and beans, with a twist. A plump, seared scallop is perched atop a savory stew of nutty shell beans and tender morsels of braised pork. You’ll want to break off some warm, crusty bread and sop up every last drop.
Chowder is the ultimate comfort food, and Steelhead Chowder is no exception. The creamy soup features delectable bits of clams, shrimp, bacon, potato, and corn. Duo of Maine Lobster lets you enjoy two versions of the seafood: one with Spinach, Mushroom and Brie Strudel; the other with tender-crisp carrots and Blood Orange Essence.
Blue cheese adds a nice bite to the Gorgonzola Blue Cheese Soufflé, accompanied by a light salad of citrus, roasted beets, fennel and arugula with White Balsamic Vinaigrette. Likewise, the sharpness of the Spicy Soba Noodle Salad with Soy-Wasabi Vinaigrette and tanginess of thinly sliced marinated cucumbers are a delightful contrast to the mild flavor of the Seared Ahi Tuna.
Pekarcik’s unique version of home-style cooking extends to the entrées as well. And while the entrées heavily favor seafood, there are plenty of options with pork, beef, and chicken.
Succulent, medium-rare slices of Grilled Rib Eye are served on a bed of diced roasted vegetables and topped with fresh herbs and blue cheese. But that’s only half of your dish … it’s paired with Braised Beef Short Ribs. All meat— not an ounce of fat—the braised beef has a savory glaze and sits atop potato puree.
Pekarcik’s double take on pork— Kurobuta Pork Two Ways—features Roasted Loin and Crispy Pork Confit, with Napa Cabbage, Onion Roast, and Cider Reduction.
The Miso-Glazed Black Cod wins raves for its melt-in-your-mouth fish and spicy Orange Chili Glaze, served with Sesame Haricot Verts and Crab Spring Rolls. Atlantic Salmon is wrapped in bacon and maple glaze, accompanied by Brussels sprout leaves and Celery Root Puree.
If you’re in the neighborhood for a latenight bite, Steelhead’s dessert is worth a visit. Lemon Soufflé Cake is nicely paired with Raspberry-Pineapple Sorbet and Raspberry Coulis. Chocoholics will love the Chocolate Tasting that gives you mini bites of four different chocolate creations: sinfully rich Warm Chocolate Center Cake, a macaroon, a caramel tart and a stellar shooter of Chocolate-Espresso Milkshake. Creamy Buttermilk Panna Cotta tastes surprisingly light and fresh. It’s surrounded by a pool of Passion Fruit Soup, topped with Tropical Fruit Relish, and embellished with an ultra-thin Pineapple Crisp.
The 135-seat brasserie features a respectable wine list and its own wine bar. Sports fans have the option of the adjacent Steelhead Lounge. You’ll find a packed house at both outlets when there are Pittsburgh Penguins hockey games and other events across the street at Mellon Arena. (During events, Steelhead Brasserie offers an abbreviated menu and a buffet with soup, salads, pastas, seafood, and dessert.) No matter when you choose to visit, you won’t be disappointed.
Steelhead Brasserie
& Wine Bar
Pittsburgh Marriott City Center
112 Washington Place
Pittsburgh
412-471-4000
Hours:
Breakfast, Mon.-Fri. 6:30 AM-11:00 AM.
Sat. & Sun. 6:30 AM-noon
Lunch, Mon.-Fri. 11:30 AM-2:00 PM
Dinner, Mon.-Thu. 5:00 PM-10:00 PM
Fri. & Sat. 4:00 PM-11:00 PM
Price Range:
Starters — $4.00 to $18.00
Entrées — $14.00 to $31.00
Desserts — $4.00 to $9.00
—Lisa Clark is a writer and restaurant reviewer whose articles have appeared in newspapers and magazines.
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