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Contemporary Attitude Infuses Houlihan’s
by Lisa Clark
Houlihan’s and I go way back. Although I wasn’t there when it opened in 1979, the Station Square bar and restaurant was a favorite haunt in my high school and college days. I’d go to meet friends over dinner or drinks, and even take a few turns on the modest dance floor.
Fast-forward 20 years, and trendy cuisine, creative presentation, and updated décor have given this comfortable gathering spot a refreshingly youthful attitude.
General manager Jim Smithyman is among those who used to dance the night away next to the long, well-stocked bar. Alas, the dance floor disappeared with ’80s hair bands, giving way to more tables at which guests can nibble and chat, and perhaps wait for a Gateway Clipper shuttle to a football or baseball game across the river.
The hip drink menu kicks things off with the popular Mini Martini Flights -- your choice of three, like Adam & Eve, Chocolate Smoovie, and Blue Moon. Tequila and margarita flights are also an option for those who can’t bring themselves to choose just one. Or try a specialty drink, like a Mango Rum Drop, made with mango rum, lemonade, orange juice, and a sidecar of Chambord or Midori.
The menu ranges from home-style to culturally inspired and selections are served on cool, angular white plates. Take, for instance, the Starters. Chicken Wings come Buffalo-style, or as Thai Chile Wings with a spicy-sweet glaze and sesame-ginger dipping sauce. There are Stuffed Potato Skins and stuffed ’Shrooms, but there are also Tuna Wontons, and Lettuce Wraps with sautéed Sesame Chicken. Grilled Flatbread Pizza comes in three varieties on a delightfully crisp and cracker- thin crust. There is even a trio of Itty Bitty Burgers.
If you hanker for a bigger burger, there are half-pounders made with Black Angus beef. The Creamy Gorgonzola Burger is topped with balsamic onions and tomatoes, Gorgonzola, and spring mix. The Tillamook Burger features aged cheddar and smoked bacon on a whole-wheat bun.
Down Home Pot Roast lives up to its
name, with tender beef in a hearty red wine
mushroom gravy piled over creamy Red
Bliss mashed potatoes, carrots, and celery.
Atlantic Salmon comes three ways: lightly seasoned and grilled, corianderrubbed with Chile Verde Butter Sauce, and mustard-encrusted. We chose the latter and were not disappointed. The eightounce filet is covered with Dijon-flavored breadcrumbs and served with baby potatoes, sautéed onions, and bacon and spinach in sherry-honey buerre blanc.
Chicken, shrimp, and steak are also well represented, with options ranging from Prime Top Sirloin and Jumbo Shrimp to Grilled Rosemary Chicken and a succulent 12-ounce New York Strip.
Entrées are served with your choice of salad or soup (including the signature Baked Potato Soup). Corn is a nice addition to the House Chop Salad. The Tuscan Salad sets the standard for presentation: a round of balsamic field greens is layered with goat cheese, chopped tomatoes, and rosemary white beans.
A tempting variety and palatable price make dessert a no-brainer. You can order a Mini Yum—a single variety of mini dessert—for $1.99, but it is easy to rationalize trying more than one. Try three for $5.49, or share five with your whole table for $8.99. Served on a large white tray, our Fab Five was more than three of us could handle. We chose the super-sweet Chocolate Cappuccino Cake, Snickers Crunch Ice Cream Dome, rich Strawberry Cheesecake, and decadent Crème Brulee. Our favorite is Grilled Smores, a buildyour- own treat that comes with crystallized graham crackers and fresh strawberries to dip in an envelope of melted ganache chocolate and marshmallow.
With choices like these, Houlihan’s will keep Pittsburghers coming back for generations.
Houlihan’s
15 Freight House Shops
Station Square, South Side
412-232-0302
www.houlihans.com
Additional Pittsburgh Locations:
Pittsburgh Mills Mall, 724-274-4181
The Mall At Robinson, 412-787-7050
Monroeville Mall, 412-373-8520
Hours:
Sun.-Thu.11:00 AM-10:00 PM
Fri. & Sat. 11:00 AM-midnight
Price Range:
Starters — $6.95-$10.95
Sandwiches & Salads — $7.95-$11.95
Entrées — $11.95-$19.95
Desserts — $1.99-$8.99
—Lisa Clark is a writer and restaurant reviewer whose articles have appeared in newspapers and magazines.
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